Starter motor testing on Pontiac Lemans 1989
Checks: is the vehicle equipped with automatic transmissions? Is the vehicle equipped with any device that requires a power source for its memory?
If it's required a external power supply can be used.
De-activate ignition and fuel injection systems
is the battery servicable.
is the range on the multimeter correct.
is the transmission in neutral.
Checking the avaliable voltage under cranking.
using the multimeter connect the leads to the terminals and crank the engine. Take the first reading you see.
Cranking voltage is 10.87v . This is a pass as it is over 9.5v
Voltage drop on the positive side of circuit. spec is 0.20v . The car tested at 0.09v this is a pass result.
Solenoid main input and output terminal studs. . The spec is 0.10v . the car tested at 0.02v . This is a pass result.
Battery negative and the starter motor whilst cranking the engine. The spec is 0.20v and the car tested at 0.20v . This is a pass result.
The max voltage drop allowed is 0.50v . The car's max is 0.31v.
Using the clampmeter to measure the amperage of the starter motor. Clamp the meter around the battery terminal wire that is connected to the starter motor, making sure that the meter is set to 400amps DC and reads Zero before testing. The spec is 125-175 amps. Starter draw was 139.1amps. Pass test.
In conclusion the starter motor is in good condition passing visual checks with all the voltage drop tests under the spec. and the amperage within the spec. Overall starter motor is working correctly and no alterations needed.
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Wednesday, 30 March 2011
Charging Systems - Charlotte
Charging system on a Pontiac Lemans 1989
First you do a visual check, Is the belt tension okay and in good condition, no frayings, oil leak, wires in good condition and have good connection.
Determine the condition of the battery. Is it in good condition? No corrosion, good terminal connections. What is the OCV? It needs to be more than 50% charged. 12.4v .
The OCV of the Car was 12.25v
Battery is weak, started the car , turned it off and let it sit for a while with lights on for 2 mins. Re tested and got 12.54v . Pass result.
Determning the condition of the voltage regulator. The spec is 13.5-14.5v
The engine needs to be on when testing but have no load. That means no lights, stereo. Looking for a slight voltage increase but not to high. Example, a 15v bulb with 16v flowing through, will blow because the voltage is to high.
The regulator voltage reading was 14.35. This is a pass result.
No load current, for a carburetter is 5-12amps or fuel injected it 10-18amps
The no load output spec is 10-18amps
Checked the no load current with the clamp meter around the possitive lead , expecting the amps to rise between 10-18amps. If the accessories were on, stereo , lights , heater etc the reading would be higher because there is more amperage needed to run these systems.
Charging voltage under load spec is OCV + 0.5v . The cars charging under load spec is 13.1v
With the engine turned off and all accessories on apart from stereo and wipers the recorder current drawn from the battery was 69amps.
A load test on the alternator was carried out. Connecting the voltmeter to the battery and adding load, the clamp meter was put around the alternator cable and the multi meter leads on the battery terminals with the engine running. Expecting it to be charging. low charge on a battery can result in the alternator needing to be replaced.
Measured the charging voltage under load 13.22v
output amps under load 50amps.
Voltage drop test
Positive side spec - 0.2v negative side spec - 0.2v
P side - 0v N side- 0v
Positive volt drop - using a multimeter place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal and positive lead on the alternator B+
Negative volt drop - Negative lead of multimeter on the alternator body and the positive lead on the positive battery terminal .
In conclusion the OCV is low, measured the voltage twice with two different readings. Apart from this nothing needs to be changed or replaced.
First you do a visual check, Is the belt tension okay and in good condition, no frayings, oil leak, wires in good condition and have good connection.
Determine the condition of the battery. Is it in good condition? No corrosion, good terminal connections. What is the OCV? It needs to be more than 50% charged. 12.4v .
The OCV of the Car was 12.25v
Battery is weak, started the car , turned it off and let it sit for a while with lights on for 2 mins. Re tested and got 12.54v . Pass result.
Determning the condition of the voltage regulator. The spec is 13.5-14.5v
The engine needs to be on when testing but have no load. That means no lights, stereo. Looking for a slight voltage increase but not to high. Example, a 15v bulb with 16v flowing through, will blow because the voltage is to high.
The regulator voltage reading was 14.35. This is a pass result.
No load current, for a carburetter is 5-12amps or fuel injected it 10-18amps
The no load output spec is 10-18amps
Checked the no load current with the clamp meter around the possitive lead , expecting the amps to rise between 10-18amps. If the accessories were on, stereo , lights , heater etc the reading would be higher because there is more amperage needed to run these systems.
Charging voltage under load spec is OCV + 0.5v . The cars charging under load spec is 13.1v
With the engine turned off and all accessories on apart from stereo and wipers the recorder current drawn from the battery was 69amps.
A load test on the alternator was carried out. Connecting the voltmeter to the battery and adding load, the clamp meter was put around the alternator cable and the multi meter leads on the battery terminals with the engine running. Expecting it to be charging. low charge on a battery can result in the alternator needing to be replaced.
Measured the charging voltage under load 13.22v
output amps under load 50amps.
Voltage drop test
Positive side spec - 0.2v negative side spec - 0.2v
P side - 0v N side- 0v
Positive volt drop - using a multimeter place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal and positive lead on the alternator B+
Negative volt drop - Negative lead of multimeter on the alternator body and the positive lead on the positive battery terminal .
In conclusion the OCV is low, measured the voltage twice with two different readings. Apart from this nothing needs to be changed or replaced.
Thursday, 24 March 2011
Alternators - charlotte
Alternators
Before carrying ou t tests on the alternator visual and safety checks are in order.
Check if the parking break is applied and if the car is in neutral. Are the warning lights operating and all ignition accessories turned off? Check the connections if there is any fraying of wires, loose connections. Look to see if the alternator is mounted to the car firmly and the condition of the fuse's and fusable links. An alternator has a drive belt. Check the tension of this if loose or frayed and cracked, replace it.
Belt: The belt was in good condition and doesn't need to be replaced. the tension is good.
A no load test was carried out.
Recorded OCV- 12.6v
Regulator voltage spec- 13.5-14.5v
Regulator voltage reading- 14.0v (pass)
No load specs for carburettor 5-12amps Fuel injected 10-18amps
No load output was 9.5amps (Pass)
The charging voltage under load spec equals OCV+0.5= 13.1 .
The charging voltage under load was 12.43v
a voltage drop test was carried out. The spec between the battery positive post and B+ (alternator output) whilst engine is running needs to be less than 0.20 volts.
Test- 0.01 = Pass
Spec between battery negative post and alternator body whilst the engine is running is 0.20volts
Test- 0.05= pass
All the voltage drops added together is 0.06 and the maximum allowed is 0.40volts . pass
Overall the charging ststem on this car is good and no alterations are needed.
Before carrying ou t tests on the alternator visual and safety checks are in order.
Check if the parking break is applied and if the car is in neutral. Are the warning lights operating and all ignition accessories turned off? Check the connections if there is any fraying of wires, loose connections. Look to see if the alternator is mounted to the car firmly and the condition of the fuse's and fusable links. An alternator has a drive belt. Check the tension of this if loose or frayed and cracked, replace it.
Belt: The belt was in good condition and doesn't need to be replaced. the tension is good.
A no load test was carried out.
Recorded OCV- 12.6v
Regulator voltage spec- 13.5-14.5v
Regulator voltage reading- 14.0v (pass)
No load specs for carburettor 5-12amps Fuel injected 10-18amps
No load output was 9.5amps (Pass)
The charging voltage under load spec equals OCV+0.5= 13.1 .
The charging voltage under load was 12.43v
a voltage drop test was carried out. The spec between the battery positive post and B+ (alternator output) whilst engine is running needs to be less than 0.20 volts.
Test- 0.01 = Pass
Spec between battery negative post and alternator body whilst the engine is running is 0.20volts
Test- 0.05= pass
All the voltage drops added together is 0.06 and the maximum allowed is 0.40volts . pass
Overall the charging ststem on this car is good and no alterations are needed.
Sunday, 20 March 2011
Batteries - Charlotte
What is it? usually a car battery is 12Volts with 6 cells and has lead plates which is the main part of the electrical system in the car.
Tests done?
Testing the cells with a hydrometer to see if the levels are correct .
Testing the voltage with a multimeter so see if the battery holds the correct charge for it to work properly.
Saftey equipment is needed to protect yourself from battery acid , Overalls, boots, eye wear and if you prefer, gloves.
Batterys are flammable because it has sulphuric acid inside of the battery and it gives off hydrogen gas. If a naked flame is to be lit near or around it. It will blow up.
when getting a new battery for a car. you need to know the battery number because it tells you size,dimensions,voltage, termindal orientation
Battery chemistry :
PBso4 >>> H2O<<<< PBso4
Tests done?
Testing the cells with a hydrometer to see if the levels are correct .
Testing the voltage with a multimeter so see if the battery holds the correct charge for it to work properly.
Saftey equipment is needed to protect yourself from battery acid , Overalls, boots, eye wear and if you prefer, gloves.
Batterys are flammable because it has sulphuric acid inside of the battery and it gives off hydrogen gas. If a naked flame is to be lit near or around it. It will blow up.
when getting a new battery for a car. you need to know the battery number because it tells you size,dimensions,voltage, termindal orientation
Battery chemistry :
PBso4 >>> H2O<<<< PBso4
Saturday, 12 March 2011
saftey briefing
Studied the powerpoint slide of saftey equipment needed and why we need to wear Personal Protection equiptment such as boots and overalls.
This week in practical sessions I learnt the meanings and how to measure Voltage Drop, the avaliable voltage, Amperage, resistance and Watts.
I learnt how to build an individual circuit which had a : Battery, Fuse, Switch and bulb
Then carried out circuit test.
Test 1: Avaliable voltage
Avaliable voltage is the amount of voltage at the power supply.
13.33V at the power supply, 13.31V after the switch and 0V after the light bulb
Test 2: Voltage drop
Voltage drop is the decrease in voltage along the conductor where voltage is flowing.
0.2v to the switch , 0vinput of switch to output of switch, 0v output of switch to input of bulb, 10.70vinput of bulb to output of the bulb, 0v output of bulb to Neg of power supply
Test 3: Amperage
Amerage is a group of electrons moving along the conductor which gives flow through the circuit.
0.28amps wire before light bulb
Test 4: Resistance.
Resistance is the flow of electrons
Calculating resistance using Ohms Law
V / A x R 10.72 / 0.28 = 38.285
Test 5: watts
Power Law W / V x A
In the last week we have gone over individual circuits , series circuits , parallel circuits. Learning how to calculate using formulars and how to wire the circuits . Also using a multi meter to measure the Ohms and And Amps in the circuit.
This week in practical sessions I learnt the meanings and how to measure Voltage Drop, the avaliable voltage, Amperage, resistance and Watts.
I learnt how to build an individual circuit which had a : Battery, Fuse, Switch and bulb
Then carried out circuit test.
Test 1: Avaliable voltage
Avaliable voltage is the amount of voltage at the power supply.
13.33V at the power supply, 13.31V after the switch and 0V after the light bulb
Test 2: Voltage drop
Voltage drop is the decrease in voltage along the conductor where voltage is flowing.
0.2v to the switch , 0vinput of switch to output of switch, 0v output of switch to input of bulb, 10.70vinput of bulb to output of the bulb, 0v output of bulb to Neg of power supply
Test 3: Amperage
Amerage is a group of electrons moving along the conductor which gives flow through the circuit.
0.28amps wire before light bulb
Test 4: Resistance.
Resistance is the flow of electrons
Calculating resistance using Ohms Law
V / A x R 10.72 / 0.28 = 38.285
Test 5: watts
Power Law W / V x A
In the last week we have gone over individual circuits , series circuits , parallel circuits. Learning how to calculate using formulars and how to wire the circuits . Also using a multi meter to measure the Ohms and And Amps in the circuit.
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